Dahlia 'David Howard' – plant photoSource: Wikimedia CommonsKelvinsongCC BY 3.0

Dahlia ‘David Howard’

Dahlia 'David Howard'
Place in a sunny border, cutting garden, or large patio container. Choose an open position with good air movement and access for staking, deadheading, and regular cutting. Dark foliage is especially effective against pale flowers or silver-leaved companions. Suitable for beginners who can provide full sun, regular watering, staking, and winter tuber storage where needed.

Dahlia ‘David Howard’ short overview

Dahlia 'David Howard' is a standout decorative dahlia valued for its warm burnt-orange, fully double flowers and dark bronze-purple foliage. It forms a vigorous clump for sunny borders, large containers, and cutting gardens, flowering from midsummer until frost in much of the United States. Plant tubers after the danger of frost, keep the soil evenly moist but well drained, and lift the tubers for winter storage in colder climates.

Taxonomy

Taxonomic classification

Plant familyAsteraceae
GenusDahlia
Plant groupDahlias
Plant typeTuberous herbaceous perennial grown as a warm-season annual in cold climates
OriginHorticultural cultivar; the genus Dahlia originates in Mexico and Central America.
Accepted scientific nameDahlia 'David Howard'
Quick overview

Dahlia ‘David Howard’ care guide

Key requirements
LightFull sun
WaterModerate, even moisture
HardinessFrost tender
SoilFertile, humus-rich, well-drained soil
SizeAbout 3–4 feet × Approximately 12–20 inches
BloomMidsummer to first frost
HumidityAverage outdoor humidity is suitable; prioritize airflow over high humidity.
Soil pHAcidic, neutral, or alkaline
Feeding needsRegular feeding during active growth
Minimum temperatureProtect tubers from freezing; foliage is damaged by frost
USDA zoneGenerally grown as a tender perennial; tubers are commonly lifted in USDA Zones 3–7 and may overwinter in the ground only in reliably mild, well-drained areas.
Growth rateFast in warm growing conditions

Light and placement

Give full sun, ideally at least 6 hours of direct light with morning or afternoon exposure and shelter from strong winds. An open, bright position supports sturdy stems and abundant flowering. Too little light produces lanky growth and fewer blooms; excessive reflected heat can scorch foliage or increase watering needs, especially in containers.

Watering and humidity

Water deeply when the upper inch of soil begins to dry, keeping moisture consistent during active growth and flowering. Containers may need watering more often than beds. Reduce watering as foliage senesces in autumn, and keep lifted tubers dry enough to prevent rot but not so dry that they shrivel. Good drainage is more important than high humidity.

Soil and growing medium

Use fertile, humus-rich soil that drains freely yet holds moderate moisture. Loam improved with compost is ideal; heavy clay should be opened with organic matter and drainage improvements. A slightly acidic to slightly alkaline reaction is tolerated, so pH correction is usually unnecessary unless a soil test shows a clear imbalance.

Feeding

In fertile soil, incorporate compost before planting. Feed lightly during early vegetative growth, then use a balanced or lower-nitrogen fertilizer once plants are established and flowering approaches. Avoid excessive nitrogen, which can produce lush foliage with fewer flowers. Stop routine feeding as plants enter autumn dormancy.

Growth and habit

A vigorous warm-season plant develops from swollen underground tubers and produces leafy flowering stems in one growing season. Pinching young shoots encourages branching, while staking prevents stems from flopping in wind or after rain. Regular cutting and deadheading help maintain a steady succession of flowers.

Planting

Planting and repotting

Planting timeAfter the danger of frost, usually late spring
Planting depthAbout 5 inches
Spacing18–24 inches apart

Plant outdoors after the local last-frost period, when soil has warmed. Set the tuber horizontally with the eyes uppermost and cover with about 5 inches of soil, adding more as shoots develop if needed. Leave approximately 18–24 inches between plants, provide support early, and water thoroughly after planting.

Repotting

For container plants, move dormant tubers into fresh, free-draining potting mix in spring, or shift actively growing plants only when roots have filled the container. Use a large, stable pot with drainage holes and avoid burying the crown deeply. Replace exhausted mix between seasons rather than keeping wet, old compost around stored tubers.

Practical tasks

Propagation and pruning

Propagation

Divide dormant tuber clumps in spring, ensuring every division has a healthy crown section and viable eye. Softwood cuttings can be rooted from shoots produced by started tubers in spring. Seed will not reliably reproduce this named cultivar, so use vegetative propagation to preserve its characteristics.

Pruning

Pinch the growing tip when plants are young to encourage branching. Deadhead by cutting spent stems back to a strong leaf joint or side shoot. After autumn frost blackens the top growth, cut stems back close to ground level shortly before lifting the tubers, taking care not to allow water to collect in hollow stems.

Seasonal care

Overwintering

After the first killing frost, allow the tubers to mature briefly if conditions remain reasonably dry, then cut stems back and lift the clumps carefully. Dry the tubers, label them, and store them in a cool, dark, frost-free place, ideally around 40–50°F, in a medium that prevents both shriveling and excess moisture. Inspect periodically and remove rotting tissue.

Practical use

Uses

Use in sunny mixed borders, cottage-style plantings, large containers, and cutting gardens. The long flowering period and strong warm color make it useful as a late-season accent. Harvest flowers regularly to encourage more buds. It is ornamental only; do not present the plant or tubers as food or medicine.

Identification and habit

Appearance

The plant is recognized by dark bronze-tinged, pinnately divided foliage carried on upright green stems and by warm orange double flowerheads. The contrast between the dusky foliage and vivid flowers is a major ornamental feature. Stems can become top-heavy under flower weight, so early support improves presentation.

Flowering

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Flower colors
Burnt orange to bronze-orange
Flower form
Fully double decorative flowerheadFlower form
ScentUnscented or scarcely scented
Flower sizeLarge, up to about 4 inches across

This decorative dahlia produces fully double flowerheads composed of many broad, overlapping ray florets, usually in warm burnt-orange to bronze-orange tones. Flowering begins around midsummer and commonly continues until the first autumn frost when spent blooms are removed. Stems are useful for cutting, especially when harvested as flowers begin to open.

Ecological relationships

Pollination and visitors

Open-centered single dahlias are generally more accessible to insects than fully double forms. This cultivar’s dense decorative flowerheads may offer limited access, so documented visitor attraction is best treated as low rather than assumed to be high. Bees, bumblebees, hoverflies, and some beetles may visit accessible florets.

Plant protection

Diseases and pests

Diseases

Watch for viral symptoms such as mottled, distorted, or unusually weak foliage and flowers; remove affected plants and do not propagate from suspect stock. Crown and tuber rot are encouraged by poor drainage, excess winter moisture, or storing damaged tubers. Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and discard soft or rotting material.

Pests

Aphids, earwigs, caterpillars, capsid-type bugs, and spider mites may damage foliage or flowers. Inspect new growth and leaf undersides regularly, remove pests by hand or with a strong water spray when practical, and preserve beneficial insects. Avoid routine broad-spectrum insecticides; treat only confirmed infestations and follow the product label.

Safety and allergens

Toxicity and pollen

ToxicityPotentially harmful if ingested; may irritate skin

RHS lists all parts as potentially harmful if ingested and capable of causing skin irritation. The practical concern is gastrointestinal discomfort after eating plant material and dermatitis in sensitive people handling sap or foliage. Keep tubers and plant trimmings away from children and pets, and wear gloves when dividing or cutting back.

Pollen and allergyLow airborne pollen concern
Typical season
During flowering, typically July through October in much of the United States
Pollination / pollen
Primarily insect-associated pollen; limited airborne dispersal

Dahlia pollen is primarily released within insect-visited flowerheads rather than carried broadly on dry wind. That may reduce airborne exposure compared with wind-pollinated plants, but it does not establish zero allergy risk. People with known plant-contact or pollen sensitivities should avoid handling flowers and foliage without gloves.

Dogs Potentially harmful if eaten; contact irritation is possible.
Cats Potentially harmful if eaten; contact irritation is possible.
Children Potentially harmful if eaten; skin irritation is possible.
Affected plant parts All parts, including tubers and foliage
Natural environment

Native habitat

The cultivated plant is not a wild native taxon; it belongs to a horticultural genus originating in Mexico and Central America. In cultivation, dahlias favor warm, sunny conditions, fertile soils, and a long frost-free season. The tubers require protection from freezing and prolonged winter saturation.

Good to know

Interesting fact

The cultivar is classified as a Decorative Group dahlia, with fully double flowerheads and flat or slightly incurved florets. Its dark bronze foliage provides ornamental value even before flowering. RHS records it at roughly 90 cm tall and lists it as an Award of Garden Merit cultivar. Named dahlias are normally maintained by tuber division or cuttings rather than seed.

Questions and answers

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

30 questions

The most relevant questions about this plant, with short and direct answers.

🌱Quick care

How do you care for Dahlia 'David Howard'?

Grow Dahlia 'David Howard' in full sun, fertile well-drained soil, and moderate, even moisture. Support the stems, feed during active growth, and protect or lift the tubers before freezing weather.

How tall does Dahlia 'David Howard' grow?

Dahlia 'David Howard' typically grows about 3 to 4 feet tall and can spread roughly 2 to 2½ feet. Its height and spread vary with growing conditions, feeding, and support.

What color are Dahlia 'David Howard' flowers?

Dahlia 'David Howard' produces warm apricot to burnt-orange flowers above dark bronze-purple foliage. The fully double blooms generally reach about 4 inches across, although size can vary.

🌤️Environment and placement

Does Dahlia 'David Howard' need full sun?

Yes, Dahlia 'David Howard' performs best with at least 6 hours of direct sun daily. In very hot Southern gardens, light afternoon shade can help reduce heat stress without sacrificing flowering.

Where should I plant Dahlia 'David Howard'?

Plant Dahlia 'David Howard' in a sunny, sheltered border or cutting garden with fertile, humus-rich, well-drained soil. Choose a location protected from strong wind because its tall stems can become top-heavy.

Can Dahlia 'David Howard' grow in a container?

Yes, Dahlia 'David Howard' can grow in a large container with drainage holes and a fertile, well-drained potting mix. Use a container large enough for its vigorous root system and provide a stake as the plant grows.

What USDA hardiness zones can grow Dahlia 'David Howard'?

Dahlia 'David Howard' is generally grown as a frost-tender perennial in the United States and can remain outdoors year-round only in areas with reliably mild winters. In colder USDA zones, grow it as an annual or lift and store the tubers.

💧Care and problems

How often should I water Dahlia 'David Howard'?

Water Dahlia 'David Howard' deeply whenever the soil surface begins to dry, keeping moisture consistent during active growth and flowering. Avoid saturated soil, which can encourage tuber and root rot.

What is the best fertilizer for Dahlia 'David Howard'?

Use a balanced fertilizer early in growth, then shift to a lower-nitrogen, higher-potassium feed as flowering approaches. Follow the product label, because excessive nitrogen can produce foliage at the expense of flowers.

Does Dahlia 'David Howard' need staking?

Yes, staking is recommended for Dahlia 'David Howard' because its tall, vigorous stems can flop in wind or under the weight of flowers. Install a sturdy stake at planting time or add support before the plant becomes difficult to handle.

Should I pinch Dahlia 'David Howard'?

Pinch out the central growing tip when the plant is about 12 inches tall to encourage branching and a bushier shape. This can produce more stems for flowers but may delay the first bloom slightly.

Should I deadhead Dahlia 'David Howard'?

Deadhead spent flowers to keep Dahlia 'David Howard' looking tidy and encourage continued flowering. Remove the entire fading flower stem back to a strong set of leaves rather than removing only the petals.

Why is my Dahlia 'David Howard' not flowering?

Insufficient sunlight, excessive nitrogen, drought, or an immature plant can reduce flowering in Dahlia 'David Howard'. Provide full sun, regular moisture, appropriate feeding, and patience until the plant is well established.

What pests affect Dahlia 'David Howard'?

Dahlia 'David Howard' may be attacked by aphids, earwigs, slugs, snails, caterpillars, capsid bugs, and sometimes spider mites. Inspect foliage regularly and use the least-toxic control appropriate for the pest and label directions.

Why are the leaves of Dahlia 'David Howard' turning yellow?

Yellow leaves may result from overwatering, poor drainage, drought, nutrient stress, natural aging, or disease. Check soil moisture and drainage first, then remove severely damaged foliage and investigate spreading discoloration or distorted growth.

How do I prevent Dahlia 'David Howard' tubers from rotting?

Prevent rot by planting in well-drained soil, avoiding persistent overwatering, and storing lifted tubers cool, dry, and frost-free. Inspect stored tubers periodically and discard any that become soft, foul-smelling, or visibly diseased.

🪴Planting and repotting

When should I plant Dahlia 'David Howard' tubers in the United States?

Plant Dahlia 'David Howard' tubers outdoors after the local last frost date, when the soil has warmed and freezing weather is unlikely. Gardeners with short seasons can start tubers indoors several weeks earlier and transplant them after hardening off.

How deep should I plant Dahlia 'David Howard' tubers?

Plant the tubers horizontally about 4 to 5 inches deep, with the eyes facing upward. Avoid planting deeper than necessary because cool, wet soil around the crown can increase the risk of rot.

How far apart should Dahlia 'David Howard' tubers be planted?

Space Dahlia 'David Howard' tubers about 18 to 24 inches apart to allow for its mature height, branching, and airflow. In a container, grow one plant per large pot unless the container is exceptionally spacious.

Can Dahlia 'David Howard' be started indoors?

Yes, start Dahlia 'David Howard' tubers indoors in pots several weeks before outdoor planting time. Keep them in bright light, water sparingly until shoots develop, and acclimate the plants gradually before transplanting.

When should I lift Dahlia 'David Howard' tubers for winter?

In areas where the ground freezes, lift Dahlia 'David Howard' tubers after the first frost blackens the foliage or before a hard freeze is forecast. Cut back the stems, let the tubers dry, and store them in a cool, frost-free place.

How do I overwinter Dahlia 'David Howard' tubers?

After lifting, let the tubers dry naturally, then store them in slightly dry peat-free potting material, vermiculite, or similar packing in a cool, dark, frost-free location. Check them occasionally and remove any rotting sections before they spread.

✂️Propagation and pruning

How do I divide Dahlia 'David Howard' tubers?

Divide Dahlia 'David Howard' tubers during dormancy or shortly before spring growth, using a clean, sharp knife. Every division must include a piece of the crown with at least one healthy eye and attached tuber tissue.

Can Dahlia 'David Howard' be grown from cuttings?

Yes, Dahlia 'David Howard' can be propagated from softwood cuttings taken from actively sprouting stored tubers. Root cuttings in a clean, well-drained medium under bright light, high humidity, and warm conditions until established.

When should I take Dahlia 'David Howard' cuttings?

Take cuttings in late winter or spring when stored tubers produce strong, fresh shoots. Choose healthy shoots that are several inches long and make the cut just below a node.

⚠️Toxicity and safety

Is Dahlia 'David Howard' toxic to dogs and cats?

Dahlia 'David Howard' should be treated as potentially harmful if eaten by dogs, cats, horses, or people. Keep tubers and plant material away from pets and children, and contact a veterinarian or poison service if ingestion occurs.

Can Dahlia 'David Howard' irritate skin?

Yes, handling Dahlia 'David Howard' may irritate sensitive skin, especially when working with tubers or foliage. Wear gloves, avoid touching your eyes, and wash exposed skin after handling the plant.

🌸Flowering and special interest

When does Dahlia 'David Howard' bloom?

Dahlia 'David Howard' usually flowers from summer into fall and can continue until the first frost. Bloom timing depends on planting date, sunlight, temperature, and the length of the growing season.

Is Dahlia 'David Howard' good for cut flowers?

Yes, Dahlia 'David Howard' is well suited to cutting gardens because it produces abundant warm-colored blooms on useful stems. Cut flowers when they are fully open, since unopened dahlia buds generally do not develop after picking.

How long do Dahlia 'David Howard' flowers last in a vase?

Dahlia 'David Howard' flowers commonly last several days in a vase when cut at the right stage and placed in clean water. Harvest fully open blooms with firm petals and recut the stems before arranging.

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Verifiability

Sources and data reliability

88% overall; cultivar-specific care is well supported, while exact U.S. pollen and visitor intensity remain less certain.